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Homegrown rosemary, oregano and sage |
The Christmas
before last, my daughter, Kay, surprised me one morning when she volunteered to
make eggs for me. It was one of the
first times I could recall that, in her 23-years, she had offered to serve me
eggs.. At the time, I lived in a condo
with an open floor between the living room and the kitchen. From where I was
ensconced on the sofa, I couldn’t see what magic was wrought. I heard the
refrigerator door open many more times than I thought necessary if she planned
to scramble up four eggs for us to share.
Finally, unable to contain myself, I got up to see what all the
commotion was about. Kay had buttered
two small ramekins. The oven was preheating to 350 degrees. She was furiously chopping herbs.
“What have you got here?” I asked her.
“Baked eggs. Go away,
they will be ready in fifteen minutes.”
When I saw the container of cream open on the counter, I
reminded her I avoided dairy products.
“Not today,” she said. “It’s not enough to worry about. Now
go SIT DOWN.”
I went back to my resting position. Then I heard aggressive
chopping resume.
“What are you
chopping?”
“Food.” She has a knack of boiling things down to their
essence.
The only time
she asked for my assistance was in finding a pan the dimension of which she
could submerge the ramekins half-way in a water bath. Shortly thereafter, I
heard the stove door open, then shut.
The electronic beep of the timer informed me that the baked eggs were
underway. Fourteen minutes passed more
rapidly than I expected. To my pleasure,
Kay had the kitchen Spic and Span clean just as the timer dinged.
I came in for
the unveiling. As I watched her gloved hand reach into the hot oven and
withdraw the eggs, my mouth began to water. She was careful not to jostle the
water bath into the ramekins. I pulled
out a cooling rack from under the counter. Kay gently placed the perfectly
cooked eggs on the rack. She had toast
already browning. Ever so tenderly, she
slid the eggs onto our plates. I buttered the toast. I told her, “I can’t wait.” I broke into the
just slightly runny eggs on my plate. Some of the yolk had thickened and some
hadn’t quite. The tops were brown as if someone had torched them to get a look
suitable for magazine perfection. The first
bite was simply sublime. How can I call
an egg sublime? When the egg white tastes salty but savory. When the white of
the egg is melded to the yoke by a hard-to-define substrate, a carrier that
unifies the egg and the yoke so they are rich and smooth on the palette. I was so enraptured by the eggs Kay made,
that I never sat down. I ate my breakfast hovering by the stove – all the while
demanding she give me a complete rundown of what she did that made her eggs so
exceptional. She shrugged her shoulders
forward in a very je ne said quoi French expression of dismissal.
“I just used whatever you had in the refrigerator, ” she
said. Over the last two days of her
visit, I finally teased out of her that she used some ½ and ½, salt, pepper,
rosemary, sage and oregano – all fresh.
I listened
carefully and felt assured I would be able to replicate her eggs. I made it my mission to replicate baked eggs
that were as dreamy, as tasty, as – shall I say EPHEMERAL as Kay’s had been.
The truth is that I tried at least five times in the oven and they never
met the standards I held trapped in my memory.
Initially, I used a water bath. I
didn’t notice a significant difference with it.
I have had pronounced success
with water baths when making baked puddings or Grapenut puddings. While the water kept the outside of the eggs
from browning, and it slightly changed the consistency of the cooked eggs, the
effects didn’t justify the labor.
After numerous attempts of making the eggs in my
oven with the bath and without the bath, the eggs cooked nicely and evenly
through either way. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I was forced to
continue experimenting using my toaster oven because the oven was not available. I felt it rational to dispense with the water
bath. Perhaps in larger volume, the bath would make sense. Despite following
her recipe, I could not replicate the sumptuous flavors that Kay managed to
seduce from the lowly egg.
In June, I had
an AhHa moment. It took about two dozen eggs, a dozen trials and and 18
months, but I knew exactly what I had to do; I had to up my game. I assembled a
planter outside the kitchen door. Inside, I gently dug three holes, inserted
rosemary, sage and oregano, and fed them aggressively with Miracle Gro.
This morning was the herbs appointment with destiny. They have had all summer to grow in
preparation for the sacrifice they would make on behalf of Kay’s Baked Eggs. If successful, there were likely going to be many
more herbaceous sacrifices in the name of Kay’s Baked Eggs before the first
frost settles. Today was the Golden Moment. I greased
and preheated. I broke shells and drizzled cream. I scattered salt and tweaked
pepper. I minced oregano and rosemary, I rolled and diced sage. I distributed herbs generously. Into the preheated oven, the ramekins sat for
a mere thirteen minutes. Using an oven
mitt, I retrieved the four dishes. The eggs slid from the ramekins onto two
plates. I didn’t, couldn’t, wait for
toast. The eggs had the exact shade of golden brown that I remembered from
Kay’s Holiday baked eggs. Using my fork,
I cut one egg in quarter. Each bite delighted
my palette with its perfection of flavors including the verboten creamy
richness of heavy cream and the smooth fattiness of yolk that was slick upon my
palate. I was delighted with the exploding flavors of fresh farm to table
robustness of rosemary, thyme and sage accentuated by the most common of
cohorts, salt and pepper. Kay’s
Eggcellent Eggs required unexpected effort and were a long-time coming, but
perhaps the waiting made them all the more pleasurable.
Kay’s Baked Eggs serve two. You will need coconut oil spray, 4 eggs, 1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper, 3 leaves sage extra for garnish, 1 sprig rosemary extra for garnish
2 sprigs thyme extra for garnish, 4 tsp. heavy cream.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Grease four small ramekins with coconut
spray. Break one egg
into each ramekin. Salt and pepper each
egg. Pour 1 teaspoon of heavy cream over each egg. Finely mince the
herbs together. For best results, roll the sage leaves,
slice, then dice.
Distribute the minced herbs equally over each egg.
*Pop the ramekins into the oven (or toaster oven) for 12-14
minutes. Just as the tops begin to bubble and turn golden, remove from
oven. You may serve the
eggs from individual ramekins or slide them onto two serving
plates adorned with fresh herbs and buttered toast. Kay’s breakfast would always include a breakfast
meat such as linguiça (true to her Portuguese heritage),
bacon, ham or sausage.
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Kay’s Eggceptional Eggs |
*If so desired, you
may use a water bath by submerging the ramekins in
a glass or metal dish
that will hold volume of water that is equal to half
the height of the
ramekin. Be exceptionally careful to
avoid burns.
A final note: having
mastered this technique, there is no end to the
creative adventures
the adventuresome chef might pursue. Use a bed of
spinach and diced
tomatoes. Layer salsa in the ramekin,
then the eggs, then
sprinkle with
parmesan cheese. Kay’s breakfast meats
might as easily be
served in the baked
eggs as next to them. The fun is there
for the making.